Sidi Saiyyed built this small mosque in 1572–73, in the last years of the Gujarat Sultanate. Its western wall holds ten stone jalis; the most famous shows intertwining trees and palm fronds cut through a single slab, so fine it reads like lace. The design became the logo of IIM Ahmedabad and a symbol of the whole city.
The mosque is still in use. Non-Muslim visitors can usually view the jalis from the courtyard outside prayer times; women may be asked to stay outside the prayer hall. The best light on the carving is early morning, before the traffic at Lal Darwaza builds up.
Gandhi moved his community to the banks of the Sabarmati in 1917 and lived here for 13 years. On 12 March 1930 he set out from this ashram with 78 followers on the 24-day march to Dandi to break the British salt law, vowing not to return until India was free — and he never lived here again.
Today you can see Hriday Kunj, his simple cottage with its spinning wheel and writing desk, Magan Niwas and Vinoba Kutir, and the Gandhi Smarak Sangrahalaya — a calm, open museum designed by Charles Correa in 1963. Come early, before the tour groups.
Endless refills of dal, kadhi, shaak, rotli and sweets. Lunch is the main event.
Steamed, spongy gram-flour cakes with green chutney — breakfast or anytime.
Crunchy and syrupy together — a Sunday-morning and Dussehra ritual.
Winter vegetables slow-cooked with spices — the essential Uttarayan dish.
Pav bhaji, chocolate sandwiches and kulfi in the old-city square, late into the night.
Half-glasses of sweet masala tea from street stalls, with a khari biscuit.
November to February is dry and pleasant. April to June often tops 40°C; the monsoon arrives around late June.
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Ahmedabad — locally Amdavad — is Gujarat’s largest city and its commercial heart. Sultan Ahmed Shah founded it on the east bank of the Sabarmati in 1411, and its walled old city, with more than 600 pols (gated neighbourhood lanes), carved wooden havelis and Indo-Islamic monuments, became India’s first UNESCO World Heritage City in 2017. The city later grew rich on textiles, earning the nickname “Manchester of the East”, and it was here that Mahatma Gandhi built his ashram and began the Salt March in 1930.
Modern Ahmedabad stretches west of the river: the Riverfront promenade, design schools, malls and the business towers of SG Highway. It is an easy city to visit — compact, safe, well connected by metro and BRTS, and only 30–45 minutes from the state capital, Gandhinagar.
For a first visit, base yourself between Ellisbridge, the Riverfront and Ashram Road: central, on the metro and a short ride from both the old city and Sabarmati Ashram. Heritage lovers can stay in a restored haveli in the old city near Manek Chowk. Navrangpura and CG Road suit shoppers and diners, SG Highway and Prahlad Nagar are best for business and modern hotels, and the airport area works for short stays and early flights. Compare them in our guide to Ahmedabad’s areas.
Evening traffic on Ellis Bridge, the World Heritage City, the carved jali of Sidi Saiyyed, Gandhi's ashram, the kites of Uttarayan and a day trip to Modhera.
Ellis Bridge over the Sabarmati, Ahmedabad. World Heritage City Amdavad: listed by UNESCO in 2017. The tree-of-life jali, Sidi Saiyyed Mosque. Sabarmati Ashram, Gandhi's home from 1917 to 1930. Kites over Gujarat at Uttarayan, 14 January. Modhera Sun Temple, a day trip. Best time: November to February. imptahmedabad.in.
Video: Pexels clips by Yogesh Jadeja, Ranjeet Chauhan, dharmesh wadhwani and KamleshKns Kumawat (Pexels licence); stills by Bernard Gagnon (CC BY-SA 3.0) and Snehrashmi (CC BY-SA 4.0) via Wikimedia Commons; edited for imptahmedabad.in.
The Riverfront, Ellisbridge or Ashram Road for a central first visit; a heritage haveli in the old city for atmosphere; SG Highway or Prahlad Nagar for business; near the airport for short stays.
November to February is dry and mild. Uttarayan, the kite festival, is on 14 January. April to June is very hot, and the monsoon runs roughly from late June to September.
Yes. The walled city of Ahmedabad was inscribed as India’s first UNESCO World Heritage City in 2017.
Gujarat is a dry state. Visitors from outside Gujarat can apply for a temporary liquor permit, usually through licensed shops at larger hotels. Check current rules before you travel.
Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel International Airport (AMD) is about 9 km north-east of the centre — usually 20–40 minutes by road.
Most foreign visitors need an Indian e-Visa, applied for online before travel. Check the official Indian government visa site for current rules.
Ahmedabad has a metro system, BRTS buses, AMTS city buses, auto-rickshaws and app-based cabs. The metro has two lines; check the current network. Walking works well in the walled city. Rickshaws are widely available for short trips.
Ahmedabad is generally safe for visitors. Take usual precautions in crowded areas and at night. The walled city's narrow lanes are busy during the day. Keep valuables secure. Women travellers should dress modestly and avoid isolated areas after dark.
Light cotton clothes work best, especially from March to June when it is very hot. November to February is cooler; a light jacket or shawl helps in the evening. Modest dress is recommended, particularly when visiting temples and mosques. Comfortable walking shoes are useful.
Photo credits: Bernard Gagnon, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons; Riyas16, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons; Ranjeet Chauhan / Pexels; Pranav911, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons; Carlo Fumarola, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons; Kushagra140, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons; Apurba Biswas, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons; Nizil Shah, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons; SAKET K. LAKHIA, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons; Pravega, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons; Snehrashmi, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons; CptViraj, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons; Manankarangiya7, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons; Vrajesh jani, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons; Fatemeh M. Saradj, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons; No machine-readable author provided. Nichalp assumed (based on copyright claims), CC BY-SA 2.5, via Wikimedia Commons; Rupeshsarkar, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons; Maulik Joshi, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons; Shashirupapara, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons; Emmanuel DYAN, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons; Apurv Jain, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons; Mahargh Shah, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons; Niharpatel123456, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons.
