Modhera Sun Temple
An 11th-century temple to the sun god, with a large stepped tank, about 100 km north-west of Ahmedabad. A day trip from the city.
What it is and its history
The Modhera Sun Temple was built in the 11th century by King Bhima I of the Solanki dynasty, who ruled parts of present-day Gujarat. It is dedicated to Surya, the Hindu sun god, and is one of the finest examples of Maru-Gurjara architecture in the region. The temple is designed so that the first rays of the sun fall on the deity's idol at the equinoxes, a feature that shows the builders' astronomical knowledge. The structure is made of sandstone and is richly carved with scenes from mythology, including episodes from the Ramayana and the Mahabharata, as well as depictions of daily life in medieval India.
The temple complex consists of three main parts: the shrine (garbhagriha), the assembly hall (sabha mandap) and the stepped tank (surya kund). The tank, which is rectangular and about 50 metres long and 20 metres wide, is the first structure you see upon entering. It has steps on all four sides and is lined with more than 100 small shrines, each with carved figures of gods, goddesses, dancers and musicians. The main temple sits on a platform behind the tank, and the whole complex is oriented to the east. The carvings are intricate and well preserved, making the site a significant example of medieval Indian temple architecture.
What to see
The stepped tank, or surya kund, is the most striking feature. It is about 50 metres long and 20 metres wide, with steps leading down to the water level, though the tank is now dry. The small shrines around its perimeter are carved with images of deities, dancers and musicians. The main temple, built on a platform, has a large assembly hall with 12 pillars, each representing a month of the Hindu calendar. The ceiling of the hall is carved with concentric rings of floral and geometric patterns, and the walls are covered with sculptures of gods, mythical creatures and scenes from daily life.
The main shrine is now empty, but the doorframe is richly carved with figures of river goddesses and celestial beings. The temple is built of sandstone, which gives it a warm golden colour in the late afternoon light. The carvings are best appreciated in the soft light of early morning or late afternoon, when the details stand out. The site is not large, but the sheer amount of carving can take time to absorb. A slow walk around the complex, from the tank to the main temple, will reveal many details that are easy to miss at first glance.
- The surya kund has 108 small shrines around its perimeter.
- The sabha mandap has 12 pillars representing the 12 months.
- The temple is aligned to the sunrise on the equinoxes.
How to get there
Modhera is about 100 km north-west of Ahmedabad, and the drive takes about two hours by car or taxi. The route goes via the Ahmedabad-Mehsana highway and then a state road, which is in good condition. You can also take a bus from Ahmedabad to Modhera; buses run from the Geeta Mandir bus stand and the Kalupur area. The journey by bus takes about three hours, as the bus stops at Mehsana and other towns along the way. A car or taxi is the most convenient option, as it allows you to set your own pace and stop at other sights on the route.
By train, the nearest station is at Mehsana, about 30 km from Modhera. From Mehsana, you can take a bus or auto-rickshaw to the temple. There is no direct train to Modhera, so you will need to change at Mehsana. A day trip by car is the most straightforward, and you can combine the visit with a stop at the Rani ki Vav stepwell in Patan, which is about 25 km further north. If you prefer public transport, check the current bus schedules, as they may change, and allow extra time for connections.
When to go and how long to allow
The best time to visit is from November to February, when the weather is warm and dry, with daytime temperatures around 25–30 °C. The temple is open every day, but it is wise to check the current opening hours, as they may vary. Allow about two to three hours to see the temple and the tank properly. The site is not large, but the carvings deserve a slow look, and you will want time to walk around the tank and the main temple. The temple is busiest on weekends and public holidays, so a weekday visit is quieter.
In summer, from March to June, the heat can be intense, with temperatures often above 40 °C in May. The temple has little shade, so carry water and a hat, and try to visit early in the morning. The monsoon, from July to September, brings rain, but the temple is still accessible, and the grass and trees around the site become green. The site is less crowded during the monsoon and in summer, so you may have the carvings to yourself. Check the weather forecast before you go, as heavy rain can make the drive slower.
Nearby sights
About 25 km north of Modhera is the Rani ki Vav stepwell in Patan, a UNESCO World Heritage site. This 11th-century stepwell is one of the finest in India, with elaborate carvings of gods, goddesses and mythical creatures. You can visit both Modhera and Patan in one day from Ahmedabad, as the drive between them takes about 30 minutes. The stepwell is a popular stop, so allow at least an hour to see it. The combination of the sun temple and the stepwell makes for a rich day of Solanki-era architecture.
The village of Modhera itself has a small museum with sculptures and artefacts from the temple, which is worth a quick look. The surrounding area is rural and quiet, with fields of cotton and wheat in the winter. The Mehsana region has several other Solanki-era temples, though they are less well known. If you have time, you could also stop at the town of Mehsana, which has a few old temples and a market. However, for a day trip from Ahmedabad, Modhera and Patan are the main highlights, and you can comfortably see both.
- Rani ki Vav at Patan (UNESCO, about 25 km north).
- The Modhera village museum (small collection of temple artefacts).
- The Mehsana region has several other Solanki-era temples.
Practical tips
Dress modestly as the temple is a religious site, and remove shoes before entering the main temple. The site is not crowded on weekdays, but weekends can be busy, especially during the winter season. Photography is allowed inside the temple complex, and there is no separate fee for photography, but check the current rules at the entrance, as they may change. There is an entry fee for the site, and you should check the current amount at the ticket counter. The fee is nominal, but it is best to carry small change.
There are no food stalls inside the temple complex, so carry snacks and water. The nearest town, Modhera, has a few small shops where you can buy drinks and basic snacks. For a proper meal, stop at Mehsana or Patan on the way back. The temple is wheelchair accessible at the ground level, but the stepped tank has many stairs, so it is not accessible for wheelchairs. If you are visiting in summer, start early in the morning to avoid the heat, and carry a hat, sunglasses and sunscreen.