Inside the pols of Ahmedabad
Gated neighbourhoods, secret passages and bird-feeders: how the old city was built. A guide to Ahmedabad's historic pols.
What is a pol?
A pol is a gated residential cluster, the basic unit of Ahmedabad's old city. Each pol is a network of narrow lanes lined with carved wooden havelis, built around a central square or a temple. The word 'pol' comes from the Sanskrit 'pratoli', meaning a gateway. Historically, each pol was a self-contained community, often inhabited by families of the same caste, trade or religion.
The pols were designed for defence and social cohesion. The main entrance had a heavy wooden khadki gate that was closed at night. Inside, the lanes were too narrow for elephants or large carts, making it hard for an invading force to move. The layout also created a sense of security and belonging. Neighbours knew each other, and children played in the lanes under the watchful eyes of elders.
- Over 600 pols exist in the walled city today.
- Each pol has a chabutara, a raised bird-feeder.
- Many pols have a community well or stepwell.
Architecture of the havelis
The havelis in the pols are three to five storeys high, with elaborately carved wooden facades, balconies and brackets. The carvings depict flowers, animals, gods and geometric patterns. The wood is usually teak or sal, chosen for its durability. The ground floor often had a shop or a storage space, while the upper floors were living quarters. The top floor had a terrace for sleeping in the summer.
The havelis were built around a central courtyard, which let in light and air. The courtyard also served as a gathering space for family events. The rooms were arranged around it, with the most private rooms at the back. The facades were designed to shade the street below, keeping it cool. The balconies allowed women to watch street life without being seen.
The chabutara: a bird-feeder
Every pol has at least one chabutara, a raised bird-feeder on a stone or wooden pillar. It is a square or octagonal platform with a shallow bowl, filled with grain and water. The chabutara is a symbol of the Jain and Hindu belief in ahimsa, non-violence. Feeding birds is considered a meritorious act. The chabutara also serves as a meeting point and a landmark within the pol.
The chabutara is often decorated with carvings of peacocks, parrots or elephants. Some are simple, others are elaborate, with multiple tiers and a canopy. The birds that visit include pigeons, sparrows, parakeets and crows. In the morning, the sound of birds fills the lane. The chabutara is maintained by the residents, who take turns to fill it.
Khadki gates and secret passages
The khadki gate is the main entrance to a pol. It is a heavy wooden door, often studded with iron spikes, set in a stone archway. The gate was closed at night and guarded. Some pols have a second, smaller gate for pedestrians. The gates are often carved with auspicious symbols like the swastika or the lotus. The khadki gate is a reminder of the pol's defensive past.
Some pols have secret passages that connect to neighbouring pols or to escape routes. These passages were used during invasions or communal violence. They are narrow, dark and often hidden behind a false wall or a cupboard. Some passages lead to a stepwell or a temple. Today, many of these passages are blocked or forgotten. But a few are still known to the older residents.
- The khadki gate is usually the only entrance to a pol.
- Some pols have a watchtower or a guard room near the gate.
- The gates are often painted in bright colours.
Life in a pol today
Life in a pol is still community-oriented. Neighbours share festivals, weddings and funerals. The lanes are used for garba during Navratri and for kite-flying during Uttarayan. The chabutara is the centre of activity, where people gather to chat. The pol has a strong sense of identity, often expressed through a temple or a community hall. Many pols have a resident priest or a caretaker.
But the pols are changing. Many young people have moved to the suburbs. Some havelis are being converted into guesthouses or shops. The narrow lanes make it hard for cars and ambulances to enter. The old wooden buildings are vulnerable to fire and termites. Conservation efforts are underway, but they are slow. The pols remain a living heritage, but they need care.
- Many pols have a temple dedicated to a local deity.
- The pols are a popular location for heritage walks.
- Some pols have a community kitchen or a dharamshala.
How to explore the pols
The best way to explore the pols is on foot. Start from the Bhadra Fort or the Teen Darwaza and walk eastwards. The lanes are narrow and winding, so you can easily get lost. That is part of the charm. Carry water and wear comfortable shoes. The pols are best visited in the morning or late afternoon, when the light is good and the temperature is lower.
You can also join a guided heritage walk. Several organisations offer walks that cover the history, architecture and culture of the pols. The walks usually last two to three hours and cover three or four pols. They are a good way to learn about the pols from a local guide. You can also explore on your own, but be respectful of the residents. Do not enter private homes without permission.