What to eat in Ahmedabad

Gujarati thali

A Gujarati thali is a full meal served on a steel or brass plate. It includes roti (flatbread), rice, dal (lentil soup), kadhi (yogurt-based curry), shaak (mixed vegetable), a sweet such as shrikhand or basundi, and a fried item like farsan. The thali is refilled until you are satisfied. Restaurants across the city serve thalis for lunch and dinner. The thali changes with the season. In winter, it may include undhiyu, a spiced mix of winter vegetables and beans. In summer, the meal is lighter, with more yogurt and buttermilk. A thali is a good introduction to Ahmedabad's food: it covers sweet, sour, salty and spicy flavours in one sitting. Many establishments offer unlimited servings, so you can taste each component at your own pace.

The thali reflects the Gujarati philosophy of balanced eating. Each item is prepared with a distinct spice blend, yet the meal as a whole feels harmonious. The sweet dish, often placed at the top right of the plate, is meant to be eaten last or alongside the savoury items. In Ahmedabad, thali restaurants are found in every neighbourhood, from the old city to the newer suburbs. Some places specialise in a particular style, such as Kathiawari thali from the Saurashtra region, which tends to be spicier. Trying a thali is a practical way to sample multiple dishes without ordering separately.

Dhokla and khaman

Dhokla is a steamed savoury cake made from fermented rice and chickpea batter. It is light, spongy and yellow, usually tempered with mustard seeds and curry leaves. Khaman is similar but made from chickpea flour alone and has a softer texture. Both are eaten as breakfast or a snack, often with green chutney and fried chillies. In Ahmedabad, dhokla and khaman are sold at stalls and small eateries throughout the day. The freshest batches come out in the morning and again in the late afternoon. A plate of dhokla costs little and makes a quick snack between sightseeing stops. The texture of dhokla is slightly porous, allowing it to absorb the tempering oils well.

Nylon khaman is a softer, finer-textured variety popular in the city. It gets its name from its smooth, almost silky crumb. Dhokla is often served with a side of sev (crispy chickpea noodles), which adds crunch. Both dhokla and khaman are naturally gluten-free and vegan, making them accessible to many dietary preferences. Street vendors in the old city prepare these snacks fresh every few hours. You can spot them by the large steel steamers set up on their carts. The aroma of mustard seeds crackling in hot oil is a common morning smell in Ahmedabad's lanes.

• Nylon khaman is a softer, finer-textured variety popular in the city.
• Dhokla is often served with a side of sev (crispy chickpea noodles).
• Both are naturally gluten-free and vegan.

Fafda and jalebi

Fafda is a crispy, spiced chickpea-flour snack, deep-fried in long strips. It is typically eaten with jalebi, a bright orange swirl of deep-fried batter soaked in sugar syrup. The combination is a classic Ahmedabad breakfast, especially on Sundays. Fafda is savoury and crunchy; jalebi is sweet and sticky. The best time to eat fafda-jalebi is early morning, when it is freshly made. Stalls in the old city start serving from around seven. The contrast of textures and flavours makes this a favourite local pairing. It is also eaten during festivals and family outings. The fafda is often accompanied by a piece of raw green chilli and a dollop of chutney.

Jalebi is made from a fermented batter of all-purpose flour and yogurt, piped into hot oil in concentric circles and then soaked in sugar syrup. The syrup is flavoured with cardamom and sometimes rose water. When fresh, jalebi has a crisp exterior and a syrupy interior. Fafda, on the other hand, relies on a blend of spices such as ajwain (carom seeds) and black pepper for its distinctive taste. Together, they represent the Gujarati talent for balancing opposing flavours. Eating them hot is essential; cold jalebi becomes chewy and loses its appeal.

Undhiyu and the winter menu

Undhiyu is a winter dish made from root vegetables such as purple yam, sweet potato and surti papdi (broad beans), cooked with spices and coconut. It is eaten with puri or thepla. The dish is traditionally prepared during Uttarayan, the kite festival in January, but appears on menus throughout the cooler months. Other winter foods include thepla (spiced flatbread) and chundo (sweet mango preserve). The city's food stalls and restaurants add seasonal items to their menus from November to February. Undhiyu is rich and heavy; a small portion is enough. The cooking method involves layering vegetables in a clay pot and slow-cooking them over a wood fire, which imparts a smoky flavour.

Uttarayan on 14 January is the peak season for undhiyu and chikki (a sesame and jaggery brittle). Thepla is often packed for travel or eaten as a snack with yogurt. The evening stalls in the old city serve undhiyu in winter, usually with a choice of puri or thepla. Some vendors also offer bhajiya (fritters) made from winter greens. The winter menu in Ahmedabad is a celebration of seasonal produce, and many families prepare these dishes at home. For visitors, this is the best time to experience the depth of Gujarati home cooking, as restaurants and street vendors alike highlight the season's specialties.

• Uttarayan on 14 January is the peak season for undhiyu and chikki.
• Thepla is often packed for travel or eaten as a snack with yogurt.
• The old city's evening stalls serve undhiyu in winter.

Night markets

The old city squares transform into food markets after sunset. One such square, near the Teen Darwaza gate, fills with stalls selling pav bhaji, dosa, chole bhature, ice cream and local sweets. The area stays busy until late, with families and groups eating at shared tables. It is a good place to try a range of street foods in one spot. Another evening market operates near Law Garden, with stalls set up along the pavement. The focus there is on snacks: khandvi, dhokla, fafda and bhel. Both markets are vegetarian and alcohol-free. They operate year-round, though the selection is smaller during the monsoon.

The night markets are an integral part of Ahmedabad's food culture. They offer a casual, open-air dining experience where you can walk from stall to stall, sampling small portions. The atmosphere is lively, with the sound of sizzling griddles and the chatter of customers. Many stalls have been run by the same families for decades, and the recipes are passed down through generations. Visiting a night market is also an opportunity to see the old city after dark, when the pols are quieter and the streets are lit by the glow of stall lamps. The food is affordable and the variety is vast.

Sweets and snacks

Ahmedabad has a strong tradition of mithai (sweets). Mohanthal (chickpea flour fudge), sohan papdi (flaky milk sweet) and ghevar (disc-shaped sweet) are popular. Sweets are often eaten as a snack or offered to guests. Many sweet shops in the old city have been running for generations. Snacks such as khandvi (rolled gram-flour strips), sev (fried chickpea noodles) and muthia (steamed dumplings) are sold everywhere. They are light and spiced, suitable for eating on the go. A plate of mixed farsan from a stall is a common afternoon break. The snacks are often garnished with grated coconut, coriander and pomegranate seeds.

Khandvi is made from a batter of gram flour and yogurt, cooked to a thick paste, spread thin on a flat surface, rolled into bite-sized cylinders and tempered with mustard seeds and curry leaves. It has a melt-in-the-mouth texture. Muthia are dumplings made from grated bottle gourd or spinach mixed with gram flour and spices, then steamed or fried. Sev is a crunchy noodle-like snack used as a topping or eaten on its own. These snacks are available throughout the day from street vendors and small shops. They reflect the Gujarati preference for light, fermented and steamed foods that are easy to digest.