Ahmedabad and its textiles

The mill city

Ahmedabad grew rich on cotton. By the early 20th century it was known as the Manchester of the East, with dozens of textile mills along the Sabarmati river. The mills spun cloth that was exported across the British Empire and beyond. The city's prosperity was built on the backs of its weavers, spinners and dyers. The first mill opened in 1861, and at its peak the city had over 60 mills. The industry attracted workers from across Gujarat and beyond, creating a diverse urban workforce.

Most of the mills have closed now. Their red-brick chimneys still stand in parts of the city, converted into offices, galleries and shopping centres. The legacy lives on in the skills of the artisans who continue to work in the old pols of the walled city. The decline began in the 1980s, and by the 2000s many mills had shut down. The Calico Museum preserves the finest examples of what those mills once produced. A walk along the Sabarmati Riverfront near the old mills reveals surviving chimneys against the modern skyline.

• The first mill opened in 1861. At its peak the city had over 60 mills.
• The textile industry attracted workers from across Gujarat and beyond.
• The decline began in the 1980s; many mills closed by the 2000s.

Calico Museum of Textiles

The Calico Museum of Textiles in Shahibaug is one of the finest textile museums in the world. It holds a collection of fabrics from across India, spanning five centuries. The building itself is a converted haveli, with courtyards and carved wooden balconies. The museum was founded in 1949 by the Sarabhai family, who were themselves mill owners. The collection includes pieces from the Mughal courts and rare early printed cottons. Allow at least two hours for the visit.

Visits are by guided tour only, and you must book ahead. Photography is not allowed inside. The tour takes you through galleries of royal costumes, temple hangings, embroideries and block-printed cloth. The museum has a reference library open by appointment. The shop sells books and reproductions but no textiles. The museum is closed on Wednesdays and public holidays. Book the morning tour to avoid the heat. The museum is in a quiet residential area, so arrive by auto or taxi.

• The museum has a reference library, open by appointment.
• The shop sells books and reproductions, but no textiles.
• The museum is closed on Wednesdays and public holidays.

Block prints in the pols

Block printing is a living tradition in Ahmedabad. In the narrow lanes of the walled city, you can still see printers at work. They use hand-carved wooden blocks to stamp patterns onto cloth. The process is slow and precise. Each colour requires a separate block. The printers work in small workshops, often in rooms no bigger than a kitchen. The designs are geometric or floral, often in indigo, red and black. The cloth is then washed, dried and sold.

Some workshops welcome visitors who want to watch the process. You may also see block-printed fabric being hung to dry on rooftops and terraces. The best area to explore is around the pols near the Jama Masjid and the central market square. Visit in the morning when the printers are at work. Ask permission before taking photographs. The tradition is kept alive by families who have been printing for generations. The quality of hand-blocked fabric is far superior to machine-printed copies.

Embroidery traditions

Ahmedabad is also a centre for embroidery. The city draws artisans from the surrounding villages of Saurashtra and Kutch. They bring with them techniques such as mirror work, chain stitch and soof embroidery. The work is done on cotton and silk, often for bridal wear or home furnishings. The stitches are tiny and precise. The finished pieces are sold in local markets and to exporters. The tradition is passed down through families, with skills taught from mother to daughter.

You can see embroidery being done in the pols, especially in the areas near the Rani no Hajiro and the Sidi Saiyyed Mosque. Some women work from home, sitting on the floor with their frames. The markets around the Law Garden area sell work from across the state in the evenings. Look for natural dyes and hand-stitched patterns. The embroidery from this region is known for its intense colours and intricate detail. Bargaining is expected in the markets.

Where to see textiles today

The Calico Museum is the main destination, but there are other places to see textiles in Ahmedabad. The Sanskar Kendra, a museum designed by Le Corbusier, has a section on the city's textile history. The building itself is worth seeing. It is located near the river on the west bank. The Sanskar Kendra is a short walk from the Ellisbridge area. The museum is open on most days, but check the current schedule before visiting.

In the walled city, the shops around the central market square and the Dhal ni Pol area sell block-printed fabrics and embroidered items. You can also visit the weekly market at the Jamalpur Darwaja, where textiles are sold alongside other goods. The quality varies, so inspect the cloth carefully. The central market square is best visited in the evening when the night market sets up. The Jamalpur Darwaja market is held on Sundays. Carry cash, as many stalls do not accept cards.

• The Sanskar Kendra is near the river, a short walk from the Ellisbridge area.
• The central market square is best visited in the evening when the night market sets up.
• Jamalpur Darwaja market is held on Sundays.

Practical tips

The Calico Museum requires advance booking. Check the current rules before you go. The museum is in Shahibaug, about 3 km from the walled city. Autos and taxis are available from anywhere in the city. The museum has no café, so eat before you arrive. Combine a visit to the Calico Museum with a walk through the Shahibaug area. The neighbourhood has old havelis and a quiet atmosphere. The museum is closed on Wednesdays and public holidays.

If you want to buy textiles, carry cash. Many small workshops and market stalls do not accept cards. Bargaining is expected in the markets. Look for natural dyes and hand-blocked patterns rather than machine-printed copies. The best time to visit Ahmedabad for textiles is between November and February, when the weather is pleasant. The city is very hot from March to June, and the monsoon from July to September can disrupt outdoor markets. Plan your trip accordingly.